And while there were some gorgeous moments, it wasn’t everything we dreamed it would be.

A LITTLE BACKGROUND

We started traveling over Christmas 15 years ago and haven’t looked back since! We love being able to experience Christmas in different spots and we spend much more time together when we are away from home. We have spent most of that time in Canada and France. So we know what we like and we don’t generally mind the cold.

OLD MONTREAL: THE HEART OF CHRISTMAS MAGIC

The historic district, Old Montreal, is by far the most festive area of the city. Imagine centuries-old stone buildings decorated with tasteful light displays, while the scent of mulled wine and fresh-baked pastries fills the air. Place Jacques-Cartier, the main square, becomes particularly enchanting with its Christmas tree and street performers braving the cold to entertain passersby.

If you have been to Quebec City for Christmas, it isn’t nearly as large as the old city there and the decorations are much more sparse. However, it is still the best place in the city to get in the spirit of Christmas.

MONTREAL’S CHRISTMAS MARKETS

The Montreal Christmas Market in Place des Arts was the best of all the Christmas Markets throughout the city. Picture wooden chalets selling everything from local maple treats to handmade ornaments. The food was seriously good and the crowds were definitely there.

It isn’t a huge market by Canadian standards (much smaller than Toronto, Vancouver, and Quebec City), but it is lovely and festive.

The Atwater Market also gets a festive makeover during December. Local producers bring out special holiday versions of their products – think cranberry-infused maple syrup and Christmas-spiced cheeses. We spent a morning here sampling different treats and enjoying the small Christmas market.

NOTRE DAME LIGHT SHOW

Don’t miss the Notre-Dame Basilica’s light show, “Aura.” The interior of this Gothic Revival masterpiece comes alive with projections that tell Montreal’s story. We almost skipped it, thinking it would be touristy, but it turned out to be one of our trip highlights. The combination of sacred architecture and modern technology is simply stunning.

FOOD SCENE: CHRISTMAS EDITION

The food scene here is incredible and deserves special attention. You absolutely must try tourtière, a traditional meat pie that’s pure comfort food. Also, try Canadian Maple Sugar Pie.

The bûche de Noël (Yule log cake) at local patisseries makes a delicious Christmas treat.After trying several (it’s research, right?), my top picks for patisseries are:

• Mamie Clafoutis on Saint-Denis St has the best almond croissants and delicious chocolatines.
• Kouign Amann Bakery makes delicious traditional Kouign Amann pastries that they serve in slices.
• Duc de Lorraine has lovely little bûche de Noël along with great croissants.

MODERN CHRISTMAS EVENTS

Montreal doesn’t just stick to tradition – they’ve got some cool modern twists on Christmas celebrations too. The Luminothérapie festival at Place des Festivals features interactive light installations that let you create your own light shows.

 

WEATHER TIPS AND UNDERGROUND CITY

A word about the weather – it’s seriously cold! Temperatures regularly drop below -10°C (14°F), but don’t let that scare you away. The city is well-prepared for winter, with the Underground City ( the metro connects to the Underground City and there is the Desjardins Mall and the Eaton Center) providing a warm network of shops and restaurants when you need a break from the cold. Here’s what you need to pack:
– Thermal underlayers (absolute must!)
– Waterproof snow boots
– A proper winter coat (not just a fall jacket)
– Hat, scarf, and mittens (gloves aren’t warm enough)
– Bring hand warmers if you are going to stay outside for more than 30 minutes.

WHERE TO STAY

We found that staying in Le Plateau-Mont-Royal area gave us the perfect base for exploring. It’s close enough to walk to major attractions but far enough from the tourist centers to feel like a local. Plus, this neighborhood has some of the best restaurants and cafes for warming up after a day of exploration.

FINAL THOUGHTS

Montreal for Christmas was okay. It wasn’t the most festive spot as compared to other places we have visited, but there were some fun things to do. Most of our time was spent driving from one place to another in awful Montreal traffic. I much prefer to visit in the spring or fall.

If you can visit Quebec City for Christmas I would highly recommend it, and visit Montreal in the fall for the most beautiful fall foliage.